Archive for May, 2010
Bird of the week â Week 20 : African hoopoe
Botswana 2010 : Rooiputs Part 1
Our six night stay at Rooiputs turned out to be the highlight of our Botswana 2010 trip. This idyllic spot is less than 30 kms from the Twee Rivieren border post and sits on a hill just above the Nossob River. One has to take a detour to this camp but the road is no challenge and it doesnât take long to reach the six well-appointed campsites. The sign maker either had a sense of humour or didn’t know how to spell!
Within hours of settling in we had dramas unfolding before us that had us grabbing our cameras to catch the action. We were sitting in the wooden A-frame having some tea when Hillary noticed an animal movement behind us. It was a mother polecat carrying her baby to a new hiding place. Rob and I positioned ourselves next to the hole, cameras in hand, and had rather a long wait until she briefly popped her head out to see what was happening. After doing that once or twice she decided to remain in hiding until she could get away under cover of darkness.
Back in the A-frame we heard a scratching noise above us and were excited to discover a big barn owl in the broken rafters.  Birds are always a priority for us so Hillary filled a pan with water and attracted some of the many sociable weavers in the area,
but she hastily had to move it away from their van area when she realized who else was partial to a drink. Check out the trail that the puffadder left in the dirt leading to the pan.
That evening we took a drive along the road to the Kij Kij waterhole and saw our second lion of the trip – a very emaciated cub that didnât look like it would survive very long.
Back at the campsite later we were having a braai when we saw a Cape fox sniffing at the hole where the polecat and her baby were hiding.
Hillary was most upset and wanted to intervene to stop the baby polecat being eaten. The mother, who had been very wary of us in the afternoon, suddenly decided that we could help her protect her baby and , acting as a decoy for the fox, she ran right into the A-frame where we were standing. Soon we had fox and polecat running around us totally oblivious of our presence. Funnily enough the Cape fox wasn’t interested in eating the mother polecat – his main aim was to get the baby.
This went on for quite a while until the polecat decided it would be safer to deposit her baby in a burrow right next to our braai fire, which she duly did when the fox was distracted. We never knew the outcome of the polecat saga, whether the baby was moved safely during the night or eaten, but the Cape fox came back to our campsite night after night. These were both truly magnificent animals and all the more pleasing to see because they are not so common.
A short stay in the bush makes one very aware of the food chain and how every animal is in danger of being eaten. One soon understands why the animals are so nervous, or alternatively, relaxed around other beasts that don’t pose a threat to them.
Our stay at Rooiputs had certainly started on a very positive note â we looked forward to what the next few days had in store for us.
Bird of the Week – Week 19 : Lanner falcon
Botswana 2010 : Nossob to Twee Rivieren
To say that the roads in the Kgalagadi are bad is an understatement. They are atrocious. If one is not bouncing over bone-shaking corrugations, then its heavy sand that makes the going tough. We had left Nossob at first light and headed across the dry riverbed into Botswana for the Mabuasehube leg of our trip. Driving through thick sand is best tackled early in the day as the sand is harder and more compact after a cold night. As the day heats up the sand becomes softer and more difficult to drive through.
The scenery along the way in the early morning was magnificent. There were lots of paw prints along the track and one occasionally had glimpses of shy buck and other animals as they moved away into the cover of the bush. In spite of the sand and corrugations we were in good spirits, looking forward to this long-awaited part of our holiday.
We stopped a couple of times along the route as the corrugations were making my ears sore from the vibrating. About forty kilometers along the way we suddenly smelt smoke in our car. This caused instant alarm. Had a fire started under the vehicle â a distinct possibility if grass had caught somewhere in the undercarriage and ignited. Rob and I both jumped out and inspected the scene. No fire, luckily, but I heard a number of swear words when Rob saw oil pouring out of the right front wheel area. When Jon drew up and inspected the damage he pronounced that our problem was a broken shock-absorber. Not good news when we still had about 110 kms to go on a road that probably wouldnât improve.
By now Jon and Hillary were also very concerned about their Oryx van. It was taking a pounding from the corrugations and after a brief chat we decided to head back to Nossob with a view to getting our car repaired. Easier said than done. Turning around on this road was a nightmare, not only because of the soft sand, but the whole area alongside the road was undermined by rat burrows. Eventually we found a suitable place and managed to get both vehicles facing in the right direction. No mean feat with a caravan.
Our next problem presented itself very quickly. Rob and I were ahead and came to a rather steep sandy hill with a turn at the top. We managed to get about three quarters of the way up before we bogged down in the thick sand. Fortunately we were able to reverse out and make our way backwards down the hill to try a second time. Jon told Rob to go up at speed and keep the momentum going as he went around the corner at the top. Strike two was met with the same result as our first attempt. We got stuck in the same spot. Once again Rob was able to reverse down. The situation was concerning as we werenât towing a van and we were busy churning up the road for Jon.
Rob let the tyres down even further and I elected to stay out of the car as he made his third attempt at crossing the dune. Hillary had walked to the top of the dune to watch proceedings â obviously wondering how Jon was going to fare with the caravan if Rob did make it over. With the engine roaring Rob sailed over on his third attempt. My heart was in my mouth when Jon, knowing he had only one chance, took to the hill at great speed. With the van swaying dangerously as he neared the top, he made it over – to great cheers from both Hillary and me. If heâd got stuck on that hill it would have been a disaster.
At Nossob we decided that we would spend two nights at Twee Rivieren whilst Rob and Jon took our car to Upington for repairs. The corrugated drive to Twee Rivieren further pounded both our vehicles but we were treated to magnificent red dune scenery along the way. As we came over the hill and saw the Auob River bed filled with animals, our depressed spirits lifted somewhat. A pair of giraffes gave us a magnificent âneckingâ display.
This part of the Park, although much busier, abounds with wildlife and we would have an opportunity to explore the area once the car was repaired. We saw this collared cheetah sitting under a tree.
Rob and Jon had all four shock absorbers replaced in Upington whilst Hillary made alternative arrangements with the Botswana Parks Board for the balance of our trip. Our new destination would be Rooiputs where we would spend the next six nights.
