Archive for November, 2010
Bird of the week â Week 47: Chestnut-vented tit-babbler
Bushveld Soap Opera
Thereâs a Dettol advertisement on TV in South Africa at the moment in which they are marketing a soap dispenser with a sensor that makes the soap squirt out without you having to touch it at all. This is to prevent you from catching germs from the dispenser itself. I ask you with tears in my eyes â just how many people have died from dangerous soap dispensers in their homes? Arenât we becoming a little too paranoid about germs these days?
Our travels through Southern Africa have taken us to many different places and weâve come across ablution set ups that have gone from the sublime to the ridiculous, especially at campsites. These are great fun though and we never fail to be amused at the creativity of the ablution designers, which tells you a lot about them and their sense of humour. I donât mind how whacky and adventurous a loo or shower is as long as itâs clean. In all the years of camping, there havenât been many places that werenât acceptable, although I doubt whether the Dettol manufacturers would agree with me.
Bear with me as I take you on a little tour of some of the ablution facilities weâve been privileged to use over the last few yearsâŠ..
Letâs start with this elegant design that we found at the Omandumba campsite in Namibia. Definitely worth wiping with Dettol before sitting on that! Not your average loo, but at least it has a good plastic seat and the toilet roll holder is conveniently close enough for you to unroll paper from the nail in the ground.
Talking of toilet roll holders, the owner of a campsite near Clarens, in the Free State, surpassed herself when she designed matching arum lily doorhandles and toilet roll holders in the ladiesâ ablution block. How classy is that!
For the adventurous camper there is always the open-air, out-door bathroom. Sometimes itâs built into the rocks, like this one at Namibgrens. This one doesnât have a door, but thatâs not the only part that makes you slightly uneasy â itâs the fact that there is a big hill overlooking the loo, so you have to be on the look-out for peeping mountaineers as well.
Or what about this lovely loo overlooking a dry river bed at the Tsauchab River Camp? Admittedly itâs a private spot with no other campers within miles, but thereâs always the chance of a stray hiker following the course of a long-gone river.
The shower cubicle is a bit drafty too, so itâs probably advisable to do your ablutions under cover of darkness. I can see a Dettol sensor dispenser looking quite neat on this wash basin.
If you get tired of the outdoor stuff and want something a bit more upmarket, then look no further than the VIP suite at Namushasha. The wash basin comes complete with animal horn to give it an authentic African bushveld look!
Fantastic. Must tell them about the Dettol dispenser though â thatâs if I live to tell the tale because I only use a disgustingly dangerous bar of soap when I wash my hands.
Bird of the Week – Week 46 : Southern carmine bee-eater
Carmine is the name of the red dye that was originally obtained from the cochineal beetle; described as the colour of tomatoes or rubies. Or blood. The name of a food dye used to colour foodstuffs like yoghurt. And part of the descriptive name given to one of the most beautiful birds in southern Africa – the Southern carmine bee-eater.
Read more on the beautiful Southern carmine bee-eater by clicking here.
Namushasha to Kalizo Lodge
One of the delights of being a birder is the way events unfold when an unexpected bird puts in an appearance. On our way from Namushasha to Kalizo Lodge, we were driving through the Caprivi, happily anticipating our visit to the Zambezi, when Rob spotted a Southern ground hornbill wandering through a field adjacent to the road. He immediately slammed on brakes and the excitement began. Southern ground hornbills (listed as vulnerable) are not very common outside the large game reserves and here we were seeing one at quite close quarters.
With camera in hand, Rob set off to get his âup closeâ photograph. The Ground hornbill was having none of it though and flew off with Rob following as best he could on foot.  I turned the car around and headed off in the general direction of the bird (thank heavens for an all-terrain vehicle), only to discover that there was actually a pair of the enormous birds.  We tracked them through the unfenced veld on foot, careful not to get too close and stress the birds, or panic them into flight, but wanting to get close enough for a few clear photos. About forty-five minutes later we had wonderful photos of the birds and were able to resume our journey. What a happy diversion that turned out to be!
Kalizo Lodge is situated on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River about forty kilometers from Katima Mulilo, and its claim to birding fame is that it is home to breeding colonies of both Carmine bee-eaters and African skimmers. After checking into the lodge and booking a late afternoon boat trip to visit these birds, we settled into our comfortable little bungalow with views over the river.
We were pleased to be given our own personal guide and boat for our trip by the obliging manageress of the Lodge, who perhaps realized that we were more interested in seeing the Carmine bee-eaters and African skimmers than crocodiles and hippos that are the more usual attraction. It was great to be back on the Zambezi, being driven past a lazy croc sunning itself on a sand bank, passing local folk fishing from wooden mokoros and watching visitors from other lodges in the area trying their luck fishing for tigers and whatever else they could haul in as the sun went down.
We were taken to a sand bank where a half a dozen or so African skimmers were gathered. Our helpful guide climbed out of the boat and found a nest â just a scrape in the sand – with three eggs. We moved away quickly as we didnât want to upset the mother bird, who settled back onto the eggs just a few minutes after we returned to the boat. All the while the Skimmers flew around, dipping their beaks into the water as they skimmed along the surface.
The highlight of the outing was seeing thousands of Carmine bee-eaters as they returned to their nests for the night. With the sun lighting their pink feathers, it was an awe-inspiring sight. This will be the subject of a post on its own.
Kaliso Lodge is a fantastic spot for birds and, judging by the pictures in the delightful pub, for fishing as well.
The trees around the lodge abound with an endless variety of birds that are a continual source of delight. But the most amazing sights are to be found on the flood plains near the lodge that attract thousands upon thousands of birds. How the pans can sustain such numbers is a mystery to us.
Marabou storks, Yellow-billed storks, Openbills, numerous types of ducks, egrets and herons, Pygmy geese, Ibisis, African spoonbills, Hamerkops, African fish-eagles.
An abandoned mokoro with no less than eight Pied kingfishers perched on it, three or four with fish in their bills.
We instantly regretted the fact that we had planned for only one night at the lodge. We had come to see the bee-eaters and skimmers, but there is so much more to see and do, and the lodge is so wonderfully situated that it deserves a much longer stay. There is also a great looking campsite overlooking the river that is very inviting. We will be back!!
